Your location will help you “train” your cow in the fence work.

Take a position close to the gate to give your horse the chance to take hold of the cow.

By AQHA Professional Horseman Bozo Rogers with Larri Jo Starkey in The American Quarter Horse Journal

In the working cow horse, strategy can make the difference between handling your cow efficiently and letting her run down the rail without you.Everything starts with a little mental exercise. If you can think like the cow, you can be ready to handle whatever she throws your way.

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Opening Gambit

The point of boxing is to teach the cow to honor your horse. To do that, you need to “train” the cow to move away from your horse when you’re in her eye.

If you are halfway down the pen when you call for the cow, you give the cow time to come to you, and a bad cow will run by you.

I like to sit about 50 feet from the end of the arena so that when the cow steps into the arena, the first thing she sees is me moving toward her. When she sees me, she’ll veer, forcing her to honor the horse before she does anything else.

If you’re on a good horse with some “cow” that wants to work, this trick gives your horse an opportunity to take hold of the cow right away – and you also get the judges’ attention quickly.

I don’t come at the cow face-on. When I’m placed at an angle, it encourages the cow to go to the corner. Once the cow is headed in the right direction, I can run to stop her, and then I have taught her that I can stop her.

She’s going to turn away from me, so the next thing I do is bump my horse over parallel to the cow. I get in front of her and stop her again.

Train the Cow

While we’re boxing, we’re teaching the cow to stop and honor us every time we get in her eye. Normally, if we get the cow stopped three or four times, it’s time to go down the fence.

If you have trained the cow well during the boxing, the long fence run is just an extension of the boxing. When the cow sees your horse in her eye, she should stop and turn. She’s going to honor you down the fence if she has honored you on the end.

Parallel is important to remember. If you turn away from the cow, you give her an opening to get by. If you stay in a straight line, you can cut her off.

If you let the cow learn she can push you, soon she’ll be pushing you down the pen and she’ll get away, so you’ll have penalties for loss of control.

When you let the cow run down the fence, give her some room, but stay right on her heels, parallel to her. When you’re ready to stop, angle into her eye. It’s the same as when you were boxing; you’re just going faster.

Create a situation where the cow’s natural veer is away from you. Once you get the angles figured out, it’s easy to stop good cattle. Bad cattle aren’t going to stop anyway.

See for yourself the amazing difference AQHA’s Fundamentals of Horsemanship will have for you and your horse. Purchase yours today!

Cowboy, clinician and horseman Bryan Neubert shares his insight into starting ranch colts.

Use Bryan Neubert's colt-starting techniques to get your ranch colt ready for the range.

By Bryan Neubert with Jim Bret Campbell in The American Quarter Horse Journal

This is the second half of a two-part story. Need to review Part 1?

Mount Up

Once the horse has softened and accepted the lessons from Part 1, he’s ready for me to prepare him to carry a rider. Remember to stay soft and quiet as you get on. I’ll slowly introduce my weight in the stirrup and just let him get used to the feel before I proceed (Photo C). I’m also ready to step back down, draw his head toward me and move his hindquarters away from me to prevent him from pulling away or kicking me. After he accepts my weight in one stirrup, I lean over and rub him on the shoulder and hip on the right side. I might also move the fender of the offside stirrup a little to get him used to the movement. When he’s handling this well, I step into the saddle, remembering to stay soft and quiet.Once I’m there, I don’t worry about trying to guide him much. I’ll let him adjust to the extra weight. I have a Cheyenne roll on the back of my saddle, and I’ll hold on to that in case he bucks. They almost never do if they are prepared up to this point.

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A Little Guidance

As he settles down, I begin to guide him a little bit with the lead rope. Introduce a little bit at a time, and don’t expect him to handle like a broke horse. I might have to use my legs or the end of my lead rope to encourage him to move forward. You can also begin using your lead rope, twirling it to get him ready to be roped on.

When he begins guiding pretty well with the halter and lead rope, then I’ll introduce a snaffle bit and headstall. I might have to give my horse a few minutes to accept the snaffle. That’s fine. He doesn’t have to guide perfectly today. Let him get used to it while working him in the round pen, and he’ll be better prepared to work tomorrow.

As he’s getting more comfortable with the snaffle, I remount and start through all of my suppling exercises using the reins. I’ll be waiting for him to yield instead of trying to make him do anything, and release with the earliest try I recognize.

Move Over, Feet

The colt I’m working with for this article has learned the steps relatively quickly. As mentioned earlier, depending on your horse, you could get to bridling and saddling in minutes or weeks. The important thing to remember is that the more solid he is at handling the little things, the easier he’ll accept bigger things in the future.

This colt, however, was ready for a few more lessons. I began to give him leg pressure, asking him to move his hindquarters. I already taught him this lesson on the ground, but now I’m asking in a different way. I just ask him to move as lightly as possible with my leg. If he even takes one step, I relieve the pressure. As he begins to understand, I’ll be able to move his hindquarters from one side to the other with very light pressure. That will come in handy for opening gates or sorting cows and in general getting control of his whole body.

Ride Out

Tomorrow, this colt would probably be OK to take out on a little ride around the yard. Your colt might learn faster or slower. Always remember to let the horse tell you when he’s ready to move on, and you’ll have a better riding horse for years.

Get a front row seat to AQHA Professional Horseman Curt Pate’s clinics with Cross Country with Curt Pate. Order the DVD today. AQHA members get a special discount!

Cowboy, clinician and horseman Bryan Neubert shares his insight into starting ranch colts.

Use Bryan Neubert's colt-starting techniques to get your ranch colt ready for the range.

By Bryan Neubert with Jim Bret Campbell in The American Quarter Horse Journal

This is the first part in a two-part series.

Bryan Neubert of Alturas, California, introduced his methods for starting ranch horses when he was 50. Neubert’s experience, gained through a lifetime of starting colts and honed by learning from such horsemen as Tom and Bill Dorrance and Ray Hunt, can help you get your horses better, faster.

Now, he tells how to make your colt’s first saddling and ride much less traumatic for both of you. Neubert says that depending on your horse, you could get to bridling and saddling in minutes, while other horses might take days.

Rigged Out

I’ve taught the horse to move his hindquarters away from me and give to pressure from the lead rope. After we work on some of those lessons, I’ll let him have a recess and a chance to relax while I get my saddle and blanket ready.

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First, I just run my hand over his back, down his sides and around his belly. Then, gradually, I’ll introduce the blanket to him. I rub the blanket along his shoulder and work my way across his back and hindquarters. If it bothers him and he moves away from me, I don’t jerk back and try to hold him with the lead rope. In fact, if he’s bothered so much that he has to leave, I let him leave. I might go back to the earlier lesson of letting him work around the pen.

If he just pulls back, I’ll ask him gently with the lead rope to yield his head and neck and yield his hindquarters away from me. Eventually, he’ll accept the blanket and allow me to place it on him.

When I place my saddle on, I do it as smoothly as possible. I’ll have my cinches tied up so they don’t hit him on the legs and throw it on so the stirrup doesn’t hit him on the shoulder. I want to be careful not to hurt him or scare him. I want to cinch him up tight enough to keep my saddle in place if he has to buck. Also, using a breast collar will allow you to not have to cinch up so tight. You can leave him unattended – he could roll if he wants to and not get the saddle turned under his belly.

After I’m cinched up, I’ll take off my halter and let him walk off as soft as he will. Some horses are going to try to outrun the saddle or try to buck it off. I’ll just let them move around until they can speed up and slow down or until they take on a more natural appearance, as if they weren’t wearing a saddle. Once he feels comfortable changing speeds and directions, he is ready for the next step.

Groundwork

Working from the ground, I’ll begin introducing principles the horse will need to know when I’m in the saddle.

The pictures illustrate several ways I can get the horse to soften his neck and yield away from the lead rope.

I’ll sometimes begin by running the rope around his hindquarters (Photo A), put some pressure on the lead rope and allow him to relieve that pressure by turning his head away from me. I’ll get him good at this on both sides before progressing to something else.

I increase the degree of challenge by running the lead rope behind the cantle of my saddle.

Finally, by running the lead behind the horn (Photo B), I can present a feel that is similar to what he will experience with me in the saddle.

Stay tuned next week for the last part of this series.

AQHA’s “Judging Western Pleasure” DVD makes an excellent resource for 4-H groups, college judging classes, people purchasing a western pleasure prospect or anyone who enjoys showing western pleasure. Find out what the judges are looking for!

Decide which option is best for you when tying-on.

With a horn knot, you have to ride your horse up so you have slack to loosen it. If you use this to heel, you want to leave a longer tail in the knot so you can use it to pull it off your horn.

By AQHA Professional Horseman Jay Holmes with Christine Hamilton in The American Quarter Horse Journal

This is the last of a two-part series. Need to review Part 1?

For a roper who is thinking about tying-on, here’s what Jay had to say on the subject.

Tying-On Options

• Leather quick-release

1. Made of leather with a brass ring.
2. Can loosen rope even with pressure on.
3. Common to jackpot ropers.
4. Cost: $5-$12

Comments: My wife, Rhonda, uses this quick release. It’s leather with a ring and a slot. You push the ring up through the slot and then push the tail through the ring. When it’s wrapped around a saddle horn, the tail end holds it on the horn. When there’s pressure put on that, it won’t come off the horn. But all you have to do is reach down and pull that tail and it comes loose.

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• Mechanical Quick Release

1. Made of metal; mechanical, spring loaded. Brands include Hector Heeler and Easy-Action.
2. Can loosen rope even with pressure on.
3. Common to jackpot ropers.
4. Cost: $50-$65.

Comments: With the Hector Heeler, your rope goes in and around a little pin. It’s spring-loaded, and that holds it together. When you push that knob down, it releases.

This is probably the most used to tie-on and probably the easiest to use, because all you have to do is push down on that metal piece.

• Horn knot

1. Made of braided leather, nylon, plastic or aluminum.
2. Must have slack to loosen the rope.
3. Used in tie-down roping.
4. Cost: $1-$5.

Comments: With a (quick release), even if there is pressure on the rope, you can get this loose. With a horn knot, you have to ride your horse up so you have slack to loosen it. If you use this to heel, you want to leave a longer tail in the knot so you can use it to pull it off your horn.

There’s nothing wrong with using a horn knot as long as your header knows you have it on your horn. When the steer gets stretched, it can’t go anywhere as long as the header holds it. You can ride up and loosen the rope and take it off.

But if for some reason your header didn’t know you were tied on, and he faces and immediately turns his rope loose, and the steer takes off to the other end of the arena, there’s still pressure on the rope, and you’re stuck. I’ve never seen someone have to cut off a rope, but there’s a heck of a jerk on the heel horse and on the cow.

My daughter, Morgan, uses a horn knot, but the only person I’ll let head for her is me. I take care of the issue of her getting it off that horn.

Rope Length

The ropes that people use to tie-on with are shorter, because you don’t need a 35-foot rope. The only reason we have 35-foot ropes out there is because we miss dallies, and we want another chance at it while that steer is still moving away, and we let that rope slide through our hand.

Normally, if everything goes right and I dally, the other three coils are still in my hand. If something goes wrong and I have to slide more rope to get my dally, then I use the other part of that 35-foot rope. But if everything goes right, this is all the rope I’m going to have out anyway.

So instead of having three coils in your hand when you dally, you have a loop and no coils when you’re tied-on. Exactly how long is by preference, but there should be no more than one coil in your hand.

Never “Hard and Fast”

If you’re out in the pasture, there are a lot of ways to tie-on: You can braid the end of your rope several ways or tie something like a half-hitch in it, tie a knot and pull it down on your saddle horn. But those ways don’t come off the saddle horn.

You only do that when you don’t have any other options. You’re out in the woods or brush, and you need to rope something, and you’re not sure you can dally. You have to tie off the rope hard and fast.

For a competition, it makes no sense – not when these safer options are available.

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AQHA Professional Horseman Jay Holmes thinks tying-on is a good option for many ropers.

If a person ties-on, they could compete and enjoy roping more, rather than worrying about dallying.

By AQHA Professional Horseman Jay Holmes with Christine Hamilton in the American Quarter Horse Journal

This is the first in a two-part series.

To AQHA Professional Horseman Jay Holmes of Sarasota, Florida, deciding to tie-on in the heeling isn’t about how good someone is or isn’t as a roper. It’s about making roping fun for a competitor. Tying-on can be a practical way to do that.

If you provide the desire and practice time, AQHA Professional Horseman Patrick Hooks of Texhoma, Oklahoma is offering to provide the knowledge it takes to know how to rope through AQHA’s FREE report, Roping Basics. Download your copy today!

“People who don’t rope a lot are better off tying-on in the heeling,” Jay says. “For one thing, their hands might not be used to the roughness.”

“When you dally in the heeling, your horse is stopped but the steer is still moving, and the rope has to slide through your hands,” he explains. “Someone who ropes all the time is used to doing that, and their hands are rough.”

People who work indoors might not be used to running the rope through their hands. More importantly, people who don’t rope a lot also might not have the quick reflexes needed for a good dally. Tied-on, that person could compete and enjoy roping more, rather than worrying about dallying.

“A person might have a really good horse that stops when they throw the rope, but they aren’t fast with the rope,” Jay says. “It’s easier for them to tie-on – they can guide the rope in a little bit more and not worry about dallying.

“When you dally, you have to turn loose of the rope and grab it again, but when you’re tied on, you do not have to turn loose of the top strand of your rope,” he says. “You can hold one strand of your rope the whole time you rope.”

He also recommends tying-on for people who need to protect their hands, like surgeons who rely on their hands to make a living or older competitors whose reflexes simply aren’t what they were in the past – especially if tying-on keeps them competing.

Stay tuned next week for the second part of this series where you will learn more about your options when tying-on.

Tying-on is accepted in AQHA heeling competition for women and all riders over age 50. Want to know more AQHA competition rules? Get your 2010 Official Handbook of Rules and Regulations. You’ll need your AQHA ID number and PIN. The handbook is free.

In AQHA’s FREE report, Roping Basics, AQHA Professional Horseman Patrick Hooks introduces you to roping terminology, different types of ropes and shows you how to build a loop and swing the rope with step-by-step photos. Download your copy today and start practicing!

Attend a clinic with world-renowned trainer Stacy Westfall during QuarterFest.

Stacy's perspective on discovering the "why" in what the horse does has allowed her to be a successful trainer.

As the first woman to compete in and win Road to the Horse, Stacy Westfall is no stranger to the competition arena. Her love and passion for horses started at a very early age and has allowed her to enjoy much success in her career as a professional horsewoman. Just to name a few of her accomplishments, she was the National Reining Horse Association’s freestyle champion in 2003, when she competed with no bridle. She went undefeated for two years in major freestyle reining competitions, and in 2006, Stacy won the prestigious Road to the Horse colt-starting competition.

Of her many feats, Stacy may be best known for her bridleless freestyle ride where she and a black American Quarter Horse, Whizards Baby Doll, aka “Roxy,” were named champion of the All American Quarter Horse Congress freestyle reining competition in 2006, making history with a score of 236. She dedicated the ride to her father, who had died days before her performance. The bareback and bridleless championship performance to the Tim McGraw song, “Live Like You Were Dying” has inspired thousands.

AQHA Professional Horseman Curt Pate believes in a common sense horsemanship approach to train high performance mounts. Purchase “Low Stress Colt Starting with Curt Pate” DVD for an excellent introduction to Curt’s methods of training.

The video of this touching event went viral and caught the attention of Ellen DeGeneres. In 2008, Stacy was invited to be a guest on Ellen’s show. Stacy was able to share her feelings about the ride and her love for what she does as a professional horsewoman.

Since Stacy’s beginning with horses, she has been intrigued by the horse’s mind. Her perspective on discovering the “why” in what the horse does has allowed her to be a successful trainer.

She has become one of the top clinicians in the nation and is scheduled to teach four clinics at QuarterFest 2010, which will be April 30 – May 2 at the Tennessee Miller Coliseum in Murfreesboro, Tennessee.

The clinics Stacy is offering at QuarterFest are listed below. Her clinics have filled up, but a general admission pass to QuarterFest will get you a front row seat!

-Teaching “Whoa”
-Spins and Steering
-Body Control
-Putting It All Together

You and your horse can personally take part in QuarterFest by purchasing your clinic admission ticket for this event. For tickets to participate in clinics, call AQHA’s QuarterFest hotline toll-free at (866) 424-7433. You can purchase general admission tickets online.

Curt Pate’s experience and natural talent with horses have helped him assist countless owners as they work through challenges with their animals. The “Low Stress Colt Starting with Curt Pate” DVD will give you an excellent introduction to Curt’s methods of training. Purchase yours today!

Make clear communication with your horse a priority with the best equipment for ground work and riding.

Photo courtesy of Julie Goodnight

From AQHA’s “Fundamentals of Horsemanship”

The study of horsemanship requires the appropriate quality equipment. Halter and lead rope, used in both ground work and riding, will help you achieve the desired result of clear communication with your horse.

The halter is made from sailing rope that should not be too thick or too thin, because to be effective, a halter must encourage the horse to look for the solution.

If it is too thick, the horse will not be in a sufficiently uncomfortable position to find an alternative answer to the one he usually gives. If it is too thin, the halter could hurt him, which would be utterly ineffective as well as cruel. The aim is not to cause your horse suffering, but to refuse him comfort when he resists.

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The halter features knots that apply pressure to specific areas, which will improve communication. It is also designed to adapt to the shape of the horse’s head without moving to the side or up and down. It should stay in place and not rub, which, again, could hurt.

The lead rope is made from high-quality sailing rope, which is water- and sweat-resistant. It has been designed to transmit the slightest indication and reduce the risk of rope burns. The rope is easy to handle, and its 12-foot length provides optimum safety and good communication during ground work. When doubled up and tied to the halter, it can be used as reins.

When combined to apply and release pressure, these two tools give good coordination and maximum precision in educating one’s horse.

AQHA’s Fundamentals of Horsemanship provides solid fundamentals, which are key to success in a saddle. This is an incredible value no horse owner should be without!

Use these resources to find a riding instructor near you.

The purpose of CHA is to promote excellence in safety and horsemanship education for the benefit of the horse industry.

So you want to learn how to ride or get better at it?  Should you open up the yellow pages to find a barn or riding instructor near you? You could, but then how do you know which people use quality school horses?  How do you know that they are safe and the instructors know what they are doing?  What credentials do they have?

By visiting www.CHAinstructors.com and searching for an instructor near you, you know that instructor has gone through a week-long hands-on training course where two people have evaluated her on how safe, effective and fun her riding lessons are.

Do you know how to tie the mecate safely and correctly? Download AQHA’s FREE report, Tying the Mecate, for easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions.

CHA, a nonprofit organization in operation since 1967, is based out of the Kentucky Horse Park in Lexington, Kentucky. It is the largest international horsemanship instructor certifying organization in North America. The purpose of CHA is to promote excellence in safety and horsemanship education for the benefit of the horse industry. CHA is one of AQHA’s educational marketing alliance partners.

This is accomplished by not only certifying instructors, but also accrediting equine facilities, publishing educational manuals and producing events for the horse industry. CHA certification does not mandate any particular teaching style or method but evaluates instruction on the basis of being safe, effective and fun.

The annual CHA Conference is open to all horse enthusiasts, and participants get to ride school horses in sessions with top instructors. Plan on joining CHA October 21-24, 2010 at The Oaks Equestrian Center in Lake City, Florida. For more information, contact CHA at (800) 399-0138 or visit www.CHA-ahse.org To find a certified riding instructor or an accredited barn near you visit www.CHAinstructors.com.

Get the steps in AQHA’s Tying the Mecate FREE report and start using your bosal for all kinds of horse riding and training endeavors.

Make the start of working with your young horses a successful one with these valuable tips from an experienced trainer.

Are you in search of some pointers to help you start working with your young horses?

Several short learning sessions each day with your horse are better than one long session, and patience is key. Photo from AQHA's "Fundamentals of Horsemanship."

Below are some horse training tips from AQHA Educational Marketing Alliance Partner Country Living Association.

1.  Wear a helmet; your safety is most important!
2. Teach your young horse to go, whoa, back and plow rein before mounting.
3. You can’t begin working with a horse too early in life, but be sensitive.
4. Several short learning sessions each day are better than one long session.  

   The American Quarter Horse Journal delivers stories, articles, statistics and information readers depend on for success in their horse business or hobby. Subscribe for yours today.

5. Lavish praise speeds up the learning process by 60 percent.
6. Always end each session on a good note, even if it means doing something very simple. It’s a win-win situation for you and the horse.
7. Leaning over a horse from a fence or hay bale will prepare that horse for seeing you overhead, and then in the saddle, which can be a shock.
8. Pay close attention to your horse’s diet.
9. Teach your horses to lead properly.
10. Learn the proper way to reprimand your horse, if necessary. Beginning with a “shhhhh” noise lets the horse know he is getting out of bounds.

Working with young horses requires its own set of rules. Their youth and inexperience needs attention and special instruction.

Contributed to CLA by Frank Bell

Most importantly, seek the advice of a qualified horse trainer through AQHA’s Professional Horsemen program or the Certified Horsemanship Association.

QuarterFest

The popular American Quarter Horse party known as QuarterFest is returning to Murfreesboro, Tennessee, in 2010, and tickets are now on sale. The Tennessee Miller Coliseum at Middle Tennessee State University will host QuarterFest April 30-May 2.

Do you want in on the greatest events, legendary horses and people, and be able to read great tips on riding, training, racing, management and health? Subscribe to The American Quarter Horse Journal today.

Overfed horses are more likely to have health and training problems.

Martin Black rides Borsalino, a fit 3-year-old stallion, alongside Royal Haida, a 16-year-old gelding who's been getting too many groceries.

By Martin Black

Some people may think they are being nice to their horses by feeding them the best feed available, keeping them fat and their hair slick.

People are doing the best they know how, but humans have taken animals that have been bred for centuries to work and be fit, and in only a few decades, fed and confined them like an animal for slaughter.

If we could just step back and make an observation, the cure to a lot of our horses’ problems may be obvious.

We are feeding them like Sumo wrestlers and then wanting them to work like soccer players, or not work enough. In either case, they are not mentally or structurally designed for this life of luxury.

I come from a background of raising horses in harsh conditions, so when I see horses that are over-cared for and compare the problems, there is no question: Overfeeding is a problem.

Are you enjoying these tips from Martin Black? You can get even more tips with our Horse Training Techniques with Martin Black report. Purchase your copy today!

Ranch horses in the Great Basin of Utah and Nevada may look like the high school cross country team, but they are healthy, fit and without the psychological problems found in stables and backyards. What most people identify as discipline problems with their horses is more likely too much stored energy. When horses consume high-energy feeds, they become hyperactive and need the chance to exercise.

Horses that are confined and overfed will have problems with hypertension, digestion, hormones and leg soundness, not to mention cribbing, weaving, ulcers, colic, founder, parasites and viruses not as prevalent in horses with lesser feeds in open spaces. If they are in training, the handlers will be challenged with directing the excess energy.

I see more problems mentally and physically with horses being overfed and under-worked than with horses that are burning as much energy as they consume and maybe show a trace of their skeletal structure. When analyzing problems with horses, I often ask myself, “Would this be a problem if the horse did not have excess energy?”

It’s also important to realize that corn, oats, barley and molasses do not supply a consistent energy supply for a performance horse who is working hard. These feeds contain excessive carbohydrates that lead to hypersensitivity because of the horse’s inability to utilize too many carbohydrates at a given time.

Also, the nutrient levels of a high-protein hay are often not consistent, which means that the hay your horse gets today may be richer or poorer than what he gets tomorrow, even though it came from the same field and looks the same.

Hay is not a reliable nutrient source for performance horses, but it is necessary in every horse’s diet. Good grass hay will provide plenty of roughage and a great source of fiber.

In bagged feeds, key things to look for are vitamin levels, organic minerals rather than inorganic, which the horse is unable to utilize, and Omega 3 essential fatty acids, which provide a more consistent energy source than excess carbohydrates.

Find more tips from Martin Black in our Horse Training Techniques with Martin Black report. You’ll learn more about attitudes, problems with being an unbalanced rider, understanding the hindquarters and transitions!

I am not a nutritionist, but I deal with many horse problems and have witnessed much success in health and training programs when the right balance is found between nutrition and the horse’s workload.

Some situations don’t allow horses to have the space they need, but things can still be brought into balance if owners recognize the effects of their feeding programs and allow more unrestricted exercise or work of the consumption of less energy.

Without the excess energy, more training could be done without extreme training methods, which would result in happier, more willing horses.

There is no doubt in my mind that if we could ask the horses who is the happiest and feels the best, it would be the ones without the crease down their backs.

Find out how you can help your horse to learn.

From “AQHA’s Fundamentals of Horsemanship”

Conquering His Fear

A frightened horse will find it extremely difficult to learn because his is constantly on the defensive and ready to act. His actions are more reactions than responses to the rider’s demands, and they may even be dangerous for himself and his rider.

The horse can learn to accept new things if his teacher gians his trust and respect, and here we see the vital difference between tolerance and acceptance. A horse that accepts a new situation remains relaxed; if he merely tolerates it, his stress level will always be on the verge of pushing him over the limit, and there will be a constant threat of danger.

The horse may even become introverted, and his next reaction could be surprising or dangerous. In the chapter on desensitization, we will see how to help a horse conquer his fear. This is one of the first phases in a horse’s education so that we may later ask him for respect without fear and obtain positive responses without negative reactions.

Earning Respect

Difficult horses often lack both trust and respect. Fear makes them want to escape from what they feel to be danger. This reaction can have serious consequences, such as pushing, shoving, knocking over the handler or kicking.

The horse must learn to respect your personal space. By controlling his movements, you will let him know who is leading the dance.

If you’re finding this article helpful, there’s plenty more where it came from. Check out “AQHA’s Fundamentals of Horsemanship” books and DVDs for even more training advice.

A series of exercises will teach you how to move your horse. You must control his forequarters in order not to be pushed, and his hindquarters in order not to be kicked. This procedure affects not only the horse’s physical behavior, but also his mental and emotional state. Tiring the horse out and concentrating only on the physical aspect can have very adverse effects over time. The horse must gain confidence and respect before we can pay more attention to his physical development. An imprisoned criminal who exercises every day will use his energy and become physically stronger. However, with no attention paid to his mental state, he will remain not only dangerous to society, but also physically fit and stronger.

During the foundation stages the horse’s development should be in the following order:

1. mental
2. emotional
3. physical

Developing Connection

Connection is the invisible link that unites man and horse. It is not a physical link, but the result of mutual interest and constant attention. This connection allows us to be present not only on the horse’s back, but also in his mind. It makes the horse feel secure becuase he is aware of it. It allows him to base his relationship on an exchange: he does not simply submit to use, but is present and involved in the partnership to the same degree as his rider.

How to get your horse to do correct lope departures with minimal cues.

Correct lope departures are important in classes such as western pleasure, western riding and western horsemanship.

By AQHA Professional Horseman Leonard Berryhill

In horsemanship or equitation, a good lope or canter departure will lead to a better execution of your maneuver. A good lope departure is when a horse responds to a minimal cue from the rider with willingness and collection.

It’s important in every AQHA event. In western riding, it’s scored. In western pleasure, a lope departure sets up your lope. It’s much easier for a horse to carry himself after he has departed correctly than it is to have a bad departure and try to correct it as you go down the pen.

As a judge, when I see a horse depart to a lope from a jog, I consider it a bad departure if a horse increases his cadence of step at the jog and trots into the lope. But it is all right for that horse to take a step, collect himself and then depart.

From the walk, again, it is all right for the horse to take a step to collect himself, move to the rider’s cue and then step up into the lope. I expect the same thing from a stop – I think the horse has to take a half step to collect and then lope.

In the past, we allowed horses to kind of rush into the lope.

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We wanted a horse to go from a dead stop into the lope, and it wasn’t as pretty as what is done today.

Why is it important that a lope departure is pretty? The word “show.” It’s a horse show, and the prettier it is, the better your performance is going to be, regardless of what class you’re in. The better departure you have, the better it’s going to look to the judges.

Common Problems
There are a lot of variables that go into a poor lope departure.

When it happens in horsemanship or equitation classes, it is typically the result of a rider who doesn’t use her cues properly to collect and prepare the horse before asking for the lope. The horse lifts his head, inverts his back, takes a few trot steps and eventually falls into the lope, instead of collecting up, gathering and loping off with some impulsion from behind.

Another possibility is that the horse could be too inexperienced or not trained well enough to do it correctly. The rider might have a too-loose rein for that horse’s ability; that particular horse might require more contact to get a correct departure; or that horse could be dull and ignoring the rider’s aids.

There are horses that just can’t perform lope departures well, even though drills can improve their abilities. A horse that tends to leave his hocks out behind and doesn’t appear to be strong in the loin or gaskin is not going to be able to lope off as well as a horse with a good, strong loin and hip.

What to Do
What makes a good lope departure different from a bad lope departure is the preparation for it. You ask the horse to collect, move off your leg, respond to your hand and then depart.

For example, if I am moving from a walk or jog into a lope, I slightly lift my hand and ask the horse to flex slightly to the inside. At the same time, I squeeze with my outside cue leg and push to the lead I’m going to ask for. I want to feel the horse move into the direction I’m pushing him. Then I ask for the lope departure with either an increased leg pressure or spur pressure and a smooch or cluck.

If it’s to the left lead, I want the horse’s hip to move to the left. I want to feel a response from the horse to my hand or leg to the left, then I apply an increased pressure, asking the horse to step into the lope.

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Drills
If my horse wants to trot off into his lope, when he trots off, I immediately stop, back up, settle and then start over. Or I might stop, back, then roll back and start over.

The stopping and backing does two things: It strengthens the loin and the gaskin, and it lightens his response to the cues. It’ll teach him to stay back off that bit and lope off in response to your leg. The backing is not a punishment, it’s teaching him to respond, getting him back onto his hocks so he can collect properly to step off into the lope.

I’ll also do a lot of leg yields, teaching him to two-track, moving his hips around. Those drills work on teaching him to collect with my hand and move off my legs. All that will make the lope departure much better.

America’s Horse Cares

Now is the perfect time to make your gift to the American Quarter Horse Foundation. You’ll not only help the people and horses served by the American Quarter Horse Foundation, but if your gift is completed by December 31, 2009, you will receive income tax relief. Visit the Foundation’s Web site and click “Donate Today.” You can also call (806) 378-5029 to make a donation. Looking for the perfect Christmas gift? Donations can also be made in honor or in memory of a special person or horse.