Dennis demonstrates breaking in your leather reins.

By expert tack maker Dennis Moreland

When you’re riding, many of your signals to your horse go through the bridle reins.

You want that to be a clear channel of communication.

If the bridle reins are so lightweight that they feel like a dish rag, your horse may have trouble knowing what you want.

You want those reins to have some body, some “feel” to them.

You want a dense piece of leather with tight fibers.

Aside from the quality of the leather, you’ve got a lot of other choices when it comes to reins on a western bridle.

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1. Split reins come in a variety of widths, usually 1/2 inch, 5/8 inch, 3/4 inch and 1 inch, and it boils down to personal preference. The 1/2-inch reins might be perfect for someone with small hands, while someone with larger hands might want the 3/4-inch reins. The 5/8-inch reins are probably the most popular ones, since they’re middle of the road. For most people, 1-inch reins are too much to hold in one hand. They might be just right if you’re riding with a snaffle bit, using two hands.
2. Roping reins are one continuous piece of tack, and they’re typically used by ropers or people racing in speed events. They’re also good for kids so they don’t drop a rein. Roping reins are usually either ½- or 5/8-inch wide, and they frequently have snaps on the ends that allow you to hook and unhook them to the bit easily. Some may have buckles that let you adjust the length.
3. A lot of times, when you get a brand-new pair of reins, they’ll be stiffer than you want to ride with. But that’s easy to fix. Spray them down with liquid saddle soap, and then wrap them around a round piece of pipe (avoid angle iron with sharp corners). Pull the reins back and forth around the pipe, and that will help break the reins in and get them to where they’re comfortable in your hands.

Ready to improve your relationship with your horse? Let Curt Pate be your guide. Get your copy of the Training Your Horse for a Better Relationship, with Curt Pate report today!

Holly Clanahan

Walking through Wal-Mart on January 1, you could tell what the marketing gurus had in mind. Fitness DVDs were front and center on the main aisle, as was a device that counted your push-ups. There was something that promised six-pack abs and something else branded to the “Biggest Loser” TV show. Hello, New Year’s resolutions!

I was amused to see that the get-fit gadgets were immediately adjacent to the candy aisle. That’s a resolution I think I could stick to: Eat more Reese’s in 2009.

I’ve got a few more resolutions. Problem is, so does my horse.

Mine: Ride more. The spring shows will be here before you know it, and there’s a clinic at the end of January. Got to get moving!
Junior’s: Ride less. Geez, Louise, I’m busy enough already! There’s a pasture to be mowed. You don’t see it mowing itself, do ya?

Mine: This is a perennial one: Get more organized. If I’m going to get everything done each day, I need to be on task and on target. Probably need to get up earlier, too.
Junior’s: Ooh, did Mom say she was getting up earlier? Because my goal is to be fed earlier. Early to be fed makes a horse healthy, wealthy and wise, right? Or something like that. I could go for more quantity, too, while we’re at it.

Don’t miss the fun, educational and heart-warming stories in the print version of America’s Horse! It goes to all members of the American Quarter Horse Association, and it’ll also keep you in the loop on Association news. We want you to belong!

Junior: I sure do like Danielle, that lady that takes care of my feet. Maybe if I threw shoes more often, I’d get to see her more. Let’s make that a goal.
Me: Um … bad plan! I’m glad you like your farrier and all, but playing horseshoes isn’t my idea of fun. Keep ‘em nailed on, please! How’s that for a goal?

Junior: I do love the red dirt around here. Depending on whether or not it has rained, and how much I roll, I can make myself pink, orange or sorrel. Here’s to more “wardrobe” changes in 2009!
Me: Why, again, do I have a gray horse? Oh, that’s right … because I like trying out every whitening shampoo known to man. Here’s to my continued support of that sector of the market!

Me: I’m going to get up earlier, work harder, spend more time working with the ponies - and I’m going to love every minute of it. Resolution No. 1: Don’t forget how blessed I am to live this lifestyle, sharing my life with the coolest creatures on the planet.
Junior: Awww. Does that mean I get more feed?

Happy riding!
Holly Clanahan
Editor, America’s Horse magazine

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By AQHA Executive Director of Registration Gary Griffith

The first thing professional tie-down roper Stran Smith asks when purchasing a horse is if the horse has AQHA papers.

“The papers help me verify the bloodlines because a horse’s pedigree is one of the things I value,” he says. “I have American Quarter Horses, and I have the papers to prove it!”

That testimonial was part of a promotion that we ran a few years ago to encourage horse owners to transfer a horse’s registration into the new owner’s name when the horse is sold.

AQHA processes hundreds of thousands of horse transfers each year. Close to 90 percent of transfers pass through AQHA’s registration and transfer department without any problems. Of those that aren’t cleared, it’s usually because the new owners forgot to include the registration certificate or because the date of sale was altered or omitted.

Get the facts about Artificial Insemination, so you can make the best choices for your mare. Get AQHA’s “Equine Insemination with Frozen Shipped Semen” DVD. AQHA members get a discount!

A Smooth Transaction

Here are a few tips to make sure your horse’s transfer sails through AQHA’s offices:

• The transfer report requires the names of the buyer and seller, along with the seller’s signature and the date of the sale. You also need to include basic information about the horse to ensure that the same horse is being transferred as the registration certificate suggests. This, along with the original registration certificate and the fee, is all that needs to be sent to AQHA.

• If you buy your horse at an auction, chances are the auction company will wait until your check has cleared the bank before it sends the transfer report and registration certificate to AQHA.

• When buying a horse from an individual, make sure you get the original registration certificate with the signed transfer at the time of payment or be certain the seller mails them to AQHA. Make sure that the horse’s age, color and markings match those on the certificate.

• Make sure the person who signs the transfer is the same person whose name is on the registration certificate as the owner. AQHA rules also require that each owner must be recorded on the horse’s certificate. If you buy a horse from someone who is not the last owner listed on the certificate, AQHA has to have transfers from each person who has owned the horse up until that time. This often results in lengthy delays in processing. If you need assistance with this situation, call (806) 376-4811.

• If the horse is in a ranch or company name, call AQHA to find out who is authorized to sign on behalf of that business. In some cases, we may not have an authorization on file. If that happens, AQHA has to obtain an authorization before the horse can be transferred.

• If you buy a horse from someone who recently died and you haven’t sent in the transfer form, be sure the date of sale was prior to the person’s death. Otherwise, AQHA can advise the buyer on what documents are needed to accept an executor’s or heir’s signature on behalf of the deceased person. These situations can cause lengthy delays in the process.

• Neither the seller nor the buyer has to be a member of AQHA to transfer a horse. However, if the buyer is not an AQHA member, he will have to pay a nonmember fee of $55, which ends up being the same amount as the cost of a membership and a transfer combined. In this case, AQHA gives the buyer a one-year membership.

Consider all your breeding options. Investigate artificial insemination with AQHA’s “Equine Insemination with Frozen Shipped Semen” DVD. It’s an excellent addition to any horseman’s library.

• The only way you can show a horse in amateur competition is if the horse is in your name or a family member’s name.

• If you own a mare and use her for breeding, it’s important to transfer the mare into your name because the name on the mare’s certificate at the time of foaling is also considered the owner of the foal. If the mare isn’t transferred at the time of foaling, you’ll have to get the signature of the previous owner to register the foal.

• The recorded owner or their authorized agent or lessee is the only person AQHA can recognize when conducting business with regard to any American Quarter Horse.

• Transferring a horse isn’t a hassle if it’s done promptly and correctly. Without it, you can’t brag that you own an American Quarter Horse and have the papers to prove it.

Call AQHA’s customer service department at (806) 376-4811 for assistance in transferring your horse.

Click here to download a transfer report.

Special Pricing

For a limited time, AQHA is charging just one transfer fee per horse, no matter how many times the horse has been bought and sold. Get your horse’s registration record squared away today for one low price! Membership requirements apply, and transfers must be sent in together. Contact AQHA for more details.

After the area has been shaved and cleaned and the freeze-branding iron placed into liquid nitrogen, the iron is pressed firmly onto the horse for about 10 seconds.

A horse owner posed the following question to the American Association of Equine Practitioners, an AQHA alliance partner.

Question:

I am interested in freeze branding my horses. What is involved in the process? Can I do this myself, or do I need help?

Answer:

Freeze branding is a method of permanently identifying your horse. It is aesthetically appealing and is less painful than hot-iron branding. Horses generally tolerate it with minimal restraint. We recommend you contact someone who frequently does this procedure to ensure good results. Inexperience can lead to an inadequate amount of white hair in an indistinct pattern or an unsightly hairless scar.

Give your horse the best shot at a healthy life. Get AQHA’s Common Horse Health Issues report today.

The most important piece of equipment is a quality branding iron. It is recommended that the iron be made of brass, as the steel iron used in hot branding does not hold the cold temperature adequately. Contact a metal fabricating company to have the brand made in your design. There are commercial manufacturers that will do this.

Freeze branding is usually done in one of three places: The hip, the shoulder or the crest of the neck. The area is clipped with a #40 blade, cleaned and degreased with alcohol. The iron is submerged in liquid nitrogen to reach the temperature of minus -320º F; usually this takes about five minutes in the nitrogen. The iron is placed on the skin for approximately 45 to 60 seconds, depending on hair color (chestnuts generally require less time). Initially, the frozen skin is indented, then thaws to leave a welt. The welt lasts 15 to 30 minutes. Over the next few weeks, the branded skin will dry and scurf up. White hair will replace the original color as the new coat grows in. A good brand is bright white and crisp against the coat background.

Some states have branding laws, and it is advisable to check with your state’s branding board to make sure you are not using someone else’s registered brand.

– Eric Peterson, DVM

Learn more about the most threatening illnesses and diseases that horses face. AQHA’s Common Horse Health Issues report features top industry experts explaining causes, treatments and much more.

What’s Right for My Horse?

Should your horse be permanently identified? Our friends at Thehorse.com offer compelling reasons to consider the different methods, including branding, tattoos and microchips. Check out the story.

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There’s a lot of buzz about “going green” these days.

From installing energy-efficient fluorescent bulbs to carrying reusable grocery bags, we’ve made steps in our households toward impacting the environment less and improving the global climate.

Managing horses is generally not forgiving to the environment (visualize brownish streams coming down the hillside from the manure pile in the rain, and fly-spray chemicals running down the wash-stall drain).

Get the ultimate handbook for anyone who loves to trail ride. AQHA’s Recreational Riding Report is packed with great information to help you enjoy your horse on the trails.

TheHorse.com offers the following ways horse people can adjust their management to be more environmentally friendly:

• Install gutters and downspouts on all buildings to divert clean rainwater away from high-traffic areas and reduce the amount of sediment that gets into the surface water.

• Plant trees as dust barriers and protection for the banks of streams and ponds.

• Use organic fertilizers and natural mineral compounds, such as rock phosphate.

• Use biodegradable and nontoxic shampoos and cleaners around the barn. Channel wash water into grassy areas so it can be absorbed into the soil.

• Mow weeds when you’re about to rest a pasture; use nontoxic weed spray or a weed eater; mowing tall weeds also keeps mosquitoes down.

• Install bird houses for purple martins, bluebirds, barn swallows, violet-green swallows and tree swallows, which can eat several thousand soft-bodied flying insects per day.

• Set out shed or trimmed dog and horse hair so the bug-loving birds can use it for building nests.

• Always compost all manure for 24 hours after deworming. Any active dewormer will bind with soil and become inactive in a short period of time during the composting process.

• A barn attracts fewer flies and other insects if it’s kept fairly dark inside during the day. A strong fan or breeze can help, and fly masks/sheets are excellent nontoxic insect controls.

Learn more tips on recreational riding, including advice on the best trail riding vacation spots. Get AQHA’s valuable Recreational Riding Report today!

• Test the well water to see what your horses are drinking; filter the city water that they drink.

• Offer organic feed to your horses.

• Put barn lights on timers; convert lights on the farm to solar power.

• Install automatic waterers powered by geothermic heat; this keeps the water cool in the summer and above freezing in the winter

• Reuse lumber that still might be in good shape for other building projects.

• Use wood byproducts (wood pellets or straw pellets), rather than virgin wood for bedding. Always avoid black walnut shavings because of potential laminitis complications.

As much as we love them, our horses have a way of finding trouble.

An accident can happen in the most unlikely of situations.

So it’s important to use good judgement around horses to keep them safe and out of harm’s way.

One simple thing any horse person can do: learn how to properly tie a hay net.

We use hay nets all the time, in our horses’ stalls and trailers. And, if they’re tied incorrectly or too low, we’re setting our horses up for potentially serious injury.

AQHA wants to help you keep your horse safe. Get AQHA’s FREE report: Tie It Right. This full-color, downloadable report shows you exactly how to tie a hay net correctly and safely. Horseman Dennis Moreland takes you step-by-step through the process with easy-to-follow directions.

Also in the Tie It Right report, Dennis shows you how to safely tie your horse’s buckets. It’s easy to do, but it’s often overlooked.

So do your horse a favor and download the Tie It Right report today. And share this FREE resource with all your friends who care about their horses’ safety!

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John Suttle is an American Farrier’s Association certified journeyman farrier, and he serves as the liaison between the AFA and the American Association of Equine Practitioners (both AQHA partners).

Here, he offers some advice for helping horses who are unsure about having their feet shod or trimmed.

Question:

I’m wondering if you have any information about working with a young horse to make the shoeing process easier. My 4-year-old horse stands quietly for all the shoeing process except the nailing on of the shoes. He has never been hurt by the nailing process, so that is not the problem. Any suggestions?

Alisa Richey

Answer:

You could take a hammer, a light hammer, and just lightly tap around the foot each time you go out to clean the hoof, maybe twice a day, morning and night. I’d do it in a setting where the horse is very content and willing to stand still. If you’re leery of that, do it with two people, one who can calm the horse and keep the situation positive, and the other person who just lightly taps the hammer on the hooves. As your horse gets used to that, then you could take a little piece of metal and set that on the horse’s foot and tap the metal. It’s a different sensation, and it’ll make a different noise. Let your horse find out that it’s no big deal. If he gets upset, just stop. You don’t have to make a big deal of it. And each day, just do a little bit more, and the horse will begin to develop a tolerance. Mostly, you don’t want to create a situation that you have to undo. Keep it positive.

For horses that are difficult to shoe in general, typically that comes about when the horse is afraid. That fear manifests itself differently with different horses. Some are very quiet; they hardly move. Some try to run, and others will fight. I like to take a little bit of time and develop confidence with that horse. I do that with a quiet demeanor, and I try to choose a location where the horse has everything working for him. If there are a number of horses in the paddock that are playing, and this horse is in here with me, he may be nervous about it. If someone takes a horse out of the barn while that horse is being worked on, he may be afraid that he’s being left, so he wants to go where he feels secure. And it may be that the tools that we use scare them. Wherever the horse is the most comfortable is where I want to shoe them.

If a horse is nervous, looking off one way, I might just turn around and let him look the way he wants to look. That might make all the difference. There was one barn where the horses were so relaxed we could have three horses with no halters on, and they would stand and be shod, all at the same time, and not leave. And then the people needed that spot for a horse that was going into quarantine, so they asked us to move about 50 feet to another location, and the same horses would pull back and dance around. It was very difficult to be around them. Just that 50 feet made a huge difference in how secure they felt.

Also, the way I touch the horse is very important. An open palm on the horse’s neck, just a very light stroking, makes a huge, huge difference. If you can get the horse to turn his head and look at you and put his nose on you, confidence is built there. It helps him to be part of the situation, where he’s doing something with you instead of having something done to him. And it takes as long as it takes. Maybe we’ll work on the horse over several days, or it may happen all at one time. But whenever I feel like we’re moving into a zone where it’s not a positive experience for the horse, I’d prefer to stop, even if I don’t have the shoe on. The first experience is really important. As the horse gains confidence, it gets easier and easier and easier. So if I spend a little time in the beginning, I’m way ahead a year later.

For horse owners, a really key piece is that when you’re there with the horse, you need to be extremely calm. If you’re worried about how this is all going to go for the horse, the horse picks up on that and it makes him nervous. So the more relaxed you can be, the more at ease you can be, the better it is. The less you try to restrain the horse and instead direct the horse, the better things go. If the horse is acting like he’s real nervous about something and you hold the rope tight or try to pull his head toward you so he won’t turn around and put his nose on the farrier, that sets it up for resistance. Let the horse turn and look. Give him the moment to relax, then you can pet him. You can use that very light stroking with the palm of your hand. It helps if the owner works on gaining the horse’s confidence when the farrier’s not there. Quite often, an owner is a little bit nervous about the horse. So if you can overcome that nervousness and just be very calm and say, “Of course, this is always the way things are. It’s perfectly normal,” it gets pretty easy.

– John Suttle, CJF, Valley Ford, California

Black chaps and hat give you lots of options.

No woman’s closet is complete without the essential black cocktail dress. It’s easy to accessorize, matches everything and is appropriate for any occasion.

Think of that cocktail dress when shopping for your first horse show ensemble, say Kay Mortensen and Penny Young, owners of Showtime Show Clothing in Purcell, Oklahoma. The core of the outfit should match anything you throw on top of it.

Kay suggests basic black for a beginner’s staple items - it’s flattering on any person or horse.

“A basic black front zip jacket dotted with crystals will take you from the showmanship class to the riding classes,” she says. “The jacket should be hip length to pair with black showmanship pants, and to wear out over your chaps for riding classes. The crystals on the jacket will add sparkle and shine, which will keep you from being too “dark” in the arena. An “invisibella” stretchy undergarment will smooth our the bra lines and make you look sleek and smooth.”

Add black boots and a black professionally shaped hat, and you’ll be ready to hit the arena.

Sound boring? It’s actually very smart. “People get in trouble when they want to buy a funny color for their first outfit,” Penny warned. “Then they can’t find anything else to match the chaps. That’s poor planning.” Not to mention a waste of money.

Get more great showing advice. Check out AQHA’s FREE report: The Ultimate Guide to Showing!

Splash of Color

Once you’ve established a core black outfit, the fun comes in spicing it up - with flashy, colorful jackets.

“A pop of color in a jacket is nice second addition,” Kay says. “White ottoman fabric that is decorated with accents of black leather, gold and silver with crystals is a top-notch item to own. The base of white shows up in crowded arenas and, with the black accents, pairs nicely with black chaps and hat. Red is also a wonderful show ring color. It shows confidence and that you are entered to win first place.”

Top off your outfit with simple crystal stud earrings. For an added accent, attach silver conchos to the corners of your black saddle pad, outlining each concho with a circle of ultrasuede that matches your vest.

As your horse show experience grows, so can your wardrobe. Maintaining your core items, save up for a new jacket that’s different from your first, giving you a completely new outfit choice. Gradually throw in new options such as a beige hat and different colored saddle pads. Little changes that further accent the jackets will liven up the outfit and give any rider a welcomed change.

Don’t forget - take great care of your show clothes, hanging and protecting them between shows and dry cleaning when necessary. If chosen wisely, your black outfit with accenting vests can last through years and years of changing horse show styles.

Show Clothes Don’ts:

Follow this advice for a stylish look.

• Don’t wear ill-fitting, baggy clothes. You want to look sharp and flawless in tailor-fit clothes.

• Don’t let your hat lose its shape. Keep up on reshaping.

• Don’t wear colored hatbands. Stick with the band that comes with the hat.

• Don’t wear colored boots with your black chaps. Only black boots will do.

• Don’t wear crepe soles or lace-up boots. Roper-style, low-heeled, well-shined boots are your best bet. Crepe soles can be OK for men, but they down-dress women’s outfits and make their feet look big.

• Don’t wear dangly jewelry. Small crystal studs do the trick.

• Don’t wear a hair net. Keep your hair neatly tucked into your hat, in a ponytail or in a neat bun, with no bangs or flyaways.

Take the next step toward horse show stardom. Get AQHA’s The Ultimate Guide to Showing report to learn everything you know about beginning your horse show adventures. Share this FREE report with your friends!

Sunshine State Shows

With the 48th Annual Florida Gold Coast Circuit having wrapped up on December 28, the 28th Annual Florida Quarter Horse Association Gulf Coast Circuit begins on January 4 at the Florida State Fairgrounds in Tampa, Florida.

Other shows in the area include special event ropings at the Triple J in Sarasota, Florida, which began December 28 and conclude January 6, as well as the 25th Annual Fox Lea Four Seasons Circuit January 10-18 in Venice, Florida.

The Journal will be at these shows to capture stories for the March issue. Check aqha.com January 5-12 for stories and photos from the Florida circuit shows.

Have a story idea? Look for field editor Tonya Ratliff-Garrison at the shows. She’ll be wearing her Journal jacket and would love to meet and chat with you.

By horse trainer Mehl Lawson

On the ranch, when cowboys need to dismount and leave their horses for a while, they hobble their mounts. Hobbling is a practical, handy piece of training that any horse can benefit from.

Hobbling is a good mental tonic for a horse - it teaches him to accept confinement and control, and not panic with things around his feet. In the process of going through being hobble-broke, a horse gets to where he accepts being roped and having his feet picked up with a rope. He learns to accept restraint of any type and finds out it isn’t going to hurt him.

When I was showing, I had a few horses that would stand at the horse trailer and dig. Hobbling a horse that digs really cuts that nervous habit way down - they might still dig a little bit, but not nearly as bad. The hobbling discourages them enough that eventually they just give it up.

When hobble training a horse, I keep safety first. Take your time and be patient with your horse because too many things can go south in a hurry.

Better understand your horse! Get AQHA’s Fundamentals of Horsemanship educational materials today!

I hobble train a young horse before I introduce the saddle for the first time. I like it when a young horse accepts something new - he never fights much of anything at that young age. Hobbling also teaches him to stand a little quieter when you put that saddle on the first time.

1. I like to start hobble training in a round pen because if he gets scared and tries to run off, he’s not going to go very far. If it’s a 2-year-old colt that isn’t broke to ride, I longe him and get him pretty tired so he doesn’t have any excuse to play. With an older horse, I go ahead and school him under saddle, then move to the hobble training.
2. Before I put the hobbles on, I put a rope around one foot. I do this with all four feet, then I start tightening that rope and pulling up until he lifts his foot. Normally, a horse will fuss around a little bit with a rope on his foot … the main thing is to be careful with him and the rope and take your time with him. He might run with it a little bit so keep a little tension on the rope so he doesn’t get tangled up. It won’t be long before he settles down.
3. Then I loosely tie him to the fence - just wrap the lead rope around a post and not tie him real hard, in case he gets scared and pulls back.
4. Put the hobbles on the horse’s front legs (scroll down to learn how). Once I get them on, I’ll push the horse over a little bit so he has to take a step and so he’ll feel that there is something on his legs. Again, the horse might balk at the hobbles, but take your time with him, and he should settle down pretty quickly.
5. Then I start rubbing my coiled lariat all over him. It’s kind of combining sacking out and the hobble breaking. Then, I uncoil my rope and rub a loop or two all over the horse, then just throw it over his back and shake it a little bit. From there, I’ll start swinging a loop and toss across his back. Eventually, I’ll toss it around his head.
6. After just one or two days, I’ll go into the round pen, hobble him and let him stand out in the middle of the pen. At this point, he can’t walk off.
7. I get my rope and start throwing big loops on him, always being careful not to hit him someplace that scares him.
8. The third day, I hobble the horse in the middle of the round pen and remove his bridle or halter. I want to see if he’ll just stand there. I rub around on him a little bit with my rope and then start tossing some loops around him.

Once my horse is good with the hobbles, I’ll back off and not hobble him after every ride. Then, it’s just a matter of giving him a refresher course every now and then.

AQHA’s Fundamentals of Horsemanship helps you build a better relationship with your horse. These valuable educational materials are the perfect addition to any horse enthusiast’s library.

Hobbling 101

Expert tack maker Dennis Moreland tells you how to put hobbles on your horse.

I prefer a Figure 8 hobble - that’s the shape it makes when it’s on a horse’s legs. It’s made of real soft 1-inch latigo leather and has two stainless steel rings. I like the 1-inch rather than the 1½-inch hobbles because the buckle gets too big on the wider hobbles. On hobbles that are narrower, the buckle is too small.

Don’t buy nylon hobbles. The nylon is very abrasive and will cut a horse’s legs. Also, look for hobbles on which the leather strap is short - 6 inches or less - between the two rings. If the leather strap is too long, a horse can actually walk with the hobbles, and you are defeating your purpose.

I also like a set of hobbles that has a long tail. Sure, when it’s on the horse, you’re going to have a lot of tail hanging, but if you have a colt that is squirming, you can buckle one of the first holes and gradually tighten it as the colt settles down.

Putting a set of hobbles on a horse is fairly simple:

1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.

Keep your pregnant mare healthy.

According to our friends at the American Association of Equine Practitioners, the average length of pregnancy in the mare is 338 to 343 days. However, normal gestation can range from 320 to 380 days.

You needn’t become overly concerned if your mare is past due. Prolonged gestation is not generally associated with problems or extra large foals unless the mare is grazing endophyte-infected fescue grass.

If your mare’s pregnancy extends much past 340 days or you’re concerned, ask your veterinarian to examine her to determine if the mare is still pregnant and confirm that all is well.

Suspected Abortion

Mares do occasionally abort. If you notice a vaginal discharge or dripping milk during pregnancy, contact your veterinarian.

If you find the remains of a placenta or fetus, save it for your veterinarian to examine. It may be possible to ascertain the cause of abortion and treat the mare accordingly. Mares can and do abort without ill effects.

However, it’s always a good idea to have her checked by your veterinarian, because some complications of abortion, such as a retained placenta, can be life-threatening to your horse.

Learn more about horse health with AQHA’s acclaimed “Your Horse’s Health” DVD series.

Impending Birth

There are obvious as well as subtle signs of impending birth. The time frame during which they occur varies from mare to mare.

The most obvious and reliable are:

• Filling of the udder (two to four weeks pre-foaling)

• Distension of the teats (four to six days pre-foaling)

• Waxing of the teats (one to four days pre-foaling)

• Obvious dripping of milk

• An increase in milk calcium 1 to 3 days pre-foaling (detected by using a stall-side test kit)

More subtle signs include:

• Softening and flattening of the muscles in the croup

• Relaxation of the vulva

• Visible changes in the position of the foal

Preparing for Birth

Your 11-month waiting game will be over before you know it. To prepare, brush up on your foaling knowledge with the companion AAEP educational brochure, The Foaling Mare and Newborn. Your veterinarian will be happy to supply it and will also be able to answer any further questions you may have about caring for your expectant mare.

For the full AAEP brochure, “Expectant Mare,” click here.

Learn from the experts about horse health complications and treatments. Arm yourself with knowledge so you can give your horses the best chance at healthy lives. AQHA members get a discount on the “Your Horse’s Health” DVD series!