Horseback Riding

Hay Shortages

December 26, 2011

How you manage the problem can make a difference for your horse.

Hay Shortage

Hay should be free of dust, weeds, dirt, insects and mold. Journal photo.

By Dr. Thomas Lenz in The American Quarter Horse Journal

Many horse owners across the country have been affected by drought, floods and fires during the last year, and the result is a severe shortage of hay in many parts of the United States.

Horses need to eat at least 1 percent of their body weight in forage daily. Long-stem hay (at least 2 inches in length) also promotes a healthy intestinal tract and decreases the risk of colic. In addition, horses are designed to graze 16 to 18 hours a day, and when nutritional forage is not available, they tend to chew on fences, trees and one another’s manes and tails.

Stretching the Hay

There are a number of ways to stretch your hay supply or to supplement it. Hay can be shipped in from parts of the country not experiencing drought or excess moisture, but transportation often costs more than the hay. Chopped or bagged hay is available, but that option can also be expensive if you are feeding a number of horses. Grass, alfalfa and mixed hay cubes are available and are nutritious but can also be expensive if you are feeding a number of animals.

Hay pellets provide a uniform nutritious source of fiber, but do not provide the long-stem roughage required for a healthy G.I. tract. Other potential downsides to pellets are that horses eat them very quickly and are therefore left with long periods of boredom between feedings. In addition, they can cause choke in geriatric horses.

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Beet pulp is an excellent source of fiber and can be purchased alone or in combination with molasses to improve its palatability. While soaking beet pulp is not necessary, many horse owners choose to do so, especially if feeding older horses. Complete feeds that include both a hay source and concentrates built in are also available. These feeds are excellent for older horses that have low digestion abilities and poor teeth. Again, they are consumed quickly, and you’ll need to deal with the lack of long-stemmed fiber and the potential for boredom.

Hay Considerations

Droughts and wet conditions not only decrease the amount of hay available but also decrease the quality of hay that is harvested. When buying hay, there are a number of factors that you should consider. First decide if you want legume, grass or mixed hay for your horses. Legume hay (typically alfalfa) is generally higher in nutritional content than grass hays such as timothy, brome, orchard grass or bermuda.

Maturity of the plants at baling also has an influence on the hay’s nutritional value. As plants mature, their energy and protein contents decrease rapidly. Therefore, if you are looking for good-quality hay, make sure it was harvested before it reached maturity and went to seed. When evaluating hay, there are a number of factors, including leafiness, texture, color, odor and cleanliness, that will help you visually estimate its quality. Leafiness is important because leaves contain more nutrients and less structured carbohydrates than stems. Structured carbohydrates are not easily digested by the horse and increase as the plant matures.

Texture is a good indicator of how mature the hay was at harvest time. It can be evaluated by pulling a sample out of a bale and folding it in your hands. It should be soft and pliable, not coarse or brittle. Coarse or stemmy hay generally has low nutritional value and is difficult for the horse to eat.

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Color is another significant indicator of hay quality and represents the amount of sun bleaching that occurred in the field or the amount of time the hay has been stored. Newly baled hay will be greener and contain more vitamins than hay that has been stored.

I believe that odor is one of the best indicators of hay quality. Hay should smell fresh and not moldy. If it smells good enough to eat, it probably is. Moldy hay should be avoided at all costs, as it can cause colic and respiratory problems.

And finally, cleanliness is very important. Hay should be free of dust, weeds, dirt, insects (especially blister beetles in alfalfa) and mold. Dusty hay compromises the horse’s respiratory system and may cause the development of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (heaves) that can be career-ending. If the only hay available is dusty, soak it for 30 minutes or so before feeding it. In addition, using hay racks can save up to 40 percent of hay that would be wasted or lost if fed on the ground.

Of course, the best way to determine the quality of hay is to submit samples to your local equine extension office. Officials there can accurately determine its nutritional value, including protein level and mineral content. For more information on selecting the best hay for your horses, contact your local equine extension nutrition specialist. Remember that good quality hay should be the foundation of every horse nutrition program.

Comments

7 Comments on “Hay Shortages”

  • Shannon

    I’m surprised this article didn’t mention slow feeders as a way to make hay last longer.

  • Carol

    If possible, feeding hay on a large (at least 6′ x 12′) rubber mat that is swept at least once a day, saves on hay and decreases chance of picking sand etc.
    Also, I have a 34 year old senior citizen that I feed a combination of pellets (with a generous amount of water sprinkled on them) and bermuda hay for “grazing” He gets immediate hunger relief from the pellets, and then has the grass hay to graze on. He is on a dirt turn out.

  • Jane

    I agree with Shannon…slow feeding hay in either specially created nets with small holes or slow-feeders encourage the horse to eat over a long period of time with VERY little waste. I now feed hay 24/7 in nets (& 1 slow-feed bin)which has resulted in very happy healthy horses. It’s feeding the way God designed the horse to eat even tho we may not have all the space to let them be totally natural. At first it’s hard to trust that they’ll ever STOP eating on the 24/7 feed, but after a week or 2, they self regulate & eat just what they need. I have an insulin resistant Morgan, a TB & her Appendix filly, & an Arab-Appy cross who are all eating this way in a herd environment. All is well… research it & try it. Jane Lillooet, BC

  • Joanna

    I’m finding that just because the hay looks good and smells good to me, it’s not to my two. They will leave alot (even my Miss Piggy) is leaving the hay and looking elsewhere for food (trees and any bits of grass she can find). I try to keep hay in front of them 24/7 just to eliminate the above, but if THEY don’t like the taste, they won’t eat it.

  • Joan

    If you have access to cheaper clean oat straw one can feed a flake of that per day to help stretch the hay. It provides the fiber but little in the way of nutrition. If the hay is of decent quality and the horse isn’t in daily work this will help get your horse thro the winter.

  • Carol M

    This article was interesting but you failed to mention where or any potential persons or organizations to contact when tryig to locate hay providers when there is a hay shortage. This would have been helpful. A lot of the hay providers in our area are shipping their hay to the drought and flood stricken areas leaving very little for the local customers. This is good as they are helping those in need but most of them are also chasing the dollar. As a result the local customers are becoming the needy.

  • Barrie Smith

    Bluebonnet feed has a range cube that is free of urea, (which is the product in cow feed that you can’t feed horses). $10 per 50# bag. can throw them across your pasture/lot and the horses have to go searching for them. keeps them busy and “foraging”. 20% protein so don’t over do it!!
    ps these range cubes are large, but not too large, so there is a choking hazard esp for older horses–I would soak them for older horses w/poor teeth and serve in a bucket.

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